It is possible

It is possible to use a solar panel to power low voltage, direct current (DC) blowers (for air collectors) or pumps (for liquid collectors). The output of the solar panels matches available solar heat gain to the solar collector. With careful sizing, the blower or pump speed is optimized for efficient solar gain to the working fluid. During low sun conditions the blower or pump speed is slow, and during high solar gain, it runs faster.

When used with a room air collector, separate controls may not be necessary. This also ensures that the system will operate in the event of utility power outage. A solar power system with battery storage can also provide power to operate a central heating system, though this is expensive for large systems.

The heart of the control

The heart of the control system is a differential thermostat, which measures the difference in temperature between the collectors and storage unit. When the collectors are 10° to 20°F (5.6° to 11°C) warmer than the storage unit, the thermostat turns on a pump or fan to circulate water or air through the collector to heat the storage medium or the house.

The operation, performance, and cost of these controls vary. Some control systems monitor the temperature in different parts of the system to help determine how it is operating. The most sophisticated systems use microprocessors to control and optimize heat transfer and delivery to storage and zones of the house

SELECTING AND SIZING A SOLAR HEATING SYSTEM

SELECTING AND SIZING A SOLAR HEATING SYSTEM

Selecting the appropriate solar energy system depends on factors such as the site, design, and heating needs of your house. Local covenants may restrict your options; for example homeowner associations may not allow you to install solar collectors on certain parts of your house (although many homeowners have been successful in challenging such covenants).

The local climate, the type and efficiency of the collector(s), and the collector area determine how much heat a solar heating system can provide. It is usually most economical to design an active system to provide 40% to 80% of the home's heating needs. Systems providing less than 40% of a home’s heat are rarely cost-effective except when using solar air heater collectors that heat one or two rooms and require no heat storage. A well-designed and insulated home that incorporates passive solar heating techniques will require a smaller and less costly heating system of any type, and may need very little supplemental heat other than solar.

The cost of an active sola

The cost of an active solar heating system will vary. Commercially available collectors come with warranties of 10 years or more, and should easily last decades longer. The economics of an active space heating system improve if it also heats domestic water, because an otherwise idle collector can heat water in the summer.

Heating your home with an active solar energy system can significantly reduce your fuel bills in the winter. A solar heating system will also reduce the amount of air pollution and greenhouse gases that result from your use of fossil fuels for heating or generating the electricity

Simple "window box collectors"

Simple "window box collectors" fit in an existing window opening. They can be active (using a fan) or passive. In passive types, air enters the bottom of the collector, rises as it is heated, and enters the room. A baffle or damper keeps the room air from flowing back into the panel (reverse thermosiphoning) when the sun is not shining. These systems only provide a small amount of heat, because the collector area is relatively small.

TRANSPIRED AIR COLLECTORS

Transpired air collectors use a simple technology to capture the sun's heat to warm buildings. The collectors consist of dark, perforated metal plates installed over a building's south-facing wall. An air space is created between the old wall and the new facade. The dark outer facade absorbs solar energy and rapidly heats up on sunny days—even when the outside air is cold.

A fan or blower draws ventilation air into the building through tiny holes in the collectors and up through the air space between the collectors and the south wall. The solar energy absorbed by the collectors warms the air flowing through them by as much as 40°F. Unlike other space heating technologies, transpired air collectors require no expensive glazing.

Transpired air collectors

Transpired air collectors are most suitable for large buildings with high ventilation loads, a fact which makes them generally unsuitable for today's tightly sealed homes. However, small transpired air collectors could be used to pre-heat the air passing into a heat recovery ventilator or could warm the air coil on an air source heat pump, improving its efficiency and comfort level on cold days. No information is currently available on the cost effectiveness of using a transpired air collector in this way, however.

ECONOMICS AND OTHER BENEFITS OF ACTIVE SOLAR HEATING SYSTEMS

Active solar heating systems are most cost-effective in cold climates with good solar resources when they are displacing the more expensive heating fuels, such as electricity, propane, and oil. Some states offer sales tax exemptions, income tax credits or deductions, and property tax exemptions or deductions for solar energy systems.

ROOM AIR HEATERS

ROOM AIR HEATERS

Air collectors can be installed on a roof or an exterior (south-facing) wall for heating one or more rooms. Although factory-built collectors for on-site installation are available, do-it-yourselfers may choose to build and install their own air collector. A simple window air heater collector can be made for a few hundred dollars.

The collector has an airtight and insulated metal frame and a black metal plate for absorbing heat with glazing in front of it. Solar radiation heats the plate that, in turn, heats the air in the collector. An electric fan or blower pulls air from the room through the collector, and blows it back into the room. Roof-mounted collectors require ducts to carry air between the room and the collector. Wall-mounted collectors are placed directly on a south-facing wall, and holes are cut through the wall for the collector air inlet and outlets.

Although some early

Although some early systems passed solar-heated air through a bed of rocks as energy storage, this approach is not recommended because of the inefficiencies involved, the potential problems with condensation and mold in the rock bed, and the effects of that moisture and mold on indoor air quality.

Solar air collectors are often integrated into walls or roofs to hide their appearance. For instance, a tile roof could have air flow paths built into it to make use of the heat absorbed by the tiles.

Most solar air heating systems are room air heaters, but relatively new devices called transpired air collectors have limited applications in homes.

CONTROLS FOR SOLAR HEATING SYSTEMS

Besides the fact that designing an active system to supply enough heat 100% of the time is generally not practical or cost-effective, most building codes and mortgage lenders require a back-up heating system. Supplementary or back-up systems supply heat when the solar system cannot meet heating requirements. Backups can range from a wood stove to a conventional central heating system.

CONTROLS FOR SOLAR HEATING SYSTEMS

Controls for solar heating systems are usually more complex than those of a conventional heating system, because they have to analyze more signals and control more devices (including the conventional back-up heating system). Solar controls use sensors, switches, and/or motors to operate the system. The system uses other controls to prevent freezing or extremely high temperatures in the collectors.

VENTILATION PREHEATING

VENTILATION PREHEATING

Solar air heating systems use air as the working fluid for absorbing and transferring solar energy. Solar air collectors can directly heat individual rooms or can potentially pre-heat the air passing into a heat recovery ventilator or through the air coil of an air-source heat pump.

Air collectors produce heat earlier and later in the day than liquid systems, so they may produce more usable energy over a heating season than a liquid system of the same size. Also, unlike liquid systems, air systems do not freeze, and minor leaks in the collector or distribution ducts will not cause significant problems, although they will degrade performance. However, air is a less efficient heat transfer medium than liquid, so solar air collectors operate at lower efficiencies than solar liquid collectors.

It is also not

It is also not completely transparent since it describes (ANNEX C) the reference heating/cooling demand and the number of hours in each operational mode (active mode, thermostat off mode, standby and crankcase heater mode) is decided from weighted climate, type of building, internal gains, set back setting and so on, but there is no reference that describes the calculations. Therefore it is not possible to recalculate the hours to fit specific needs. The climate hours that describes the temperature bins does not seem to be adjusted in any ways since it is the same hours that is used in Ecodesign LOT 1.   Another weakness is that the model does not include domestic hot water.  
Possibility The model could be developed so that it would be possible to decide the energy demand of the house. It could also be a possibility to fit the model to your own climate. Maybe the ground water temperature and thereby the bore hole temperature could be climate depending.  It should be obvious how interpolations or extrapolations of capacity and/or COP should be performed to avoid differences between users

since they are only tested a

Risk The performance of water/water heat pumps can be overestimated, especially at the cold climate, since they are only tested at +10°C at the cold side (in reality the ground water temperature can be lower than this). This can also be the case for other ground source heat pumps.  
The degradation coefficient Cc might be a disadvantage for a ground source heat pump when default values are used. Cc =0.9 is a larger degradation of GSHP’s than what is shown in reality. There is a risk that the requirement of having heat pumps tested in part load might lead to extensive laboratory tests, which is costly. It is also difficult to get sufficient data from existing laboratory tests, since few heat pumps are tested in part loads

This model is very

This model is very wide and thorough in its content. It treats both room heating and tap water production. The model is adaptable to different climates and the resolution of the temperature bins can be chosen.  
The model specifies the requirements and losses of the certain house and defines recoverable respectively unrecoverable energy.  
It is not necessary to test the heat pump at the part loads, since there are default values that can be used.  
The model can be used to calculate the SPF for the entire system with the building included or only for the heat pump.

Risk There

Risk There is a present danger of doing mistakes when using the model. The large amount of data that is taken into account will probably result in much estimation that will differ from case to case and will therefore result in incomparable outcome of the model. Also the same heat pump installation can probably give different results depending on the way it is calculated, (choosing method, input, accuracy and test points).
7.3 EuP LOT 1  In general, the Energy Using Products (EuP) Directive have broadened to include also Energy Related Products (ErP), but for the treatment in this report, we choose to use the term EuP, since heat pumps are energy using

Strength Test

Strength Test data from EN 14511 can be used in the calculations. The model provides default values to recalculate the test points to fit the part load of the heat pump for the different kinds of heat pumps (fixed capacity, staged capacity och variable capacity). The capacity and corresponding COP values are then interpolated between the temperature bins. However, the accurateness of the recalculation is unknown.  
The model itself has suggested test points with a radiator curve (supply temperature) that is adjusted to the outdoor temperature. At colder outdoor temperatures the supply temperature is higher and at warmer outdoor temperatures the supply temperatures are lowe

needed.

Weakness Unfortunately the model still contains bugs and technical mistakes in the equations and the way of thinking. It seems to be adjusted to boilers and bio boilers instead of heat pumps.  
The model does not include a power balance, but is doing a temperature balance instead. This makes the distribution of the energy need and the required amounts of backup heat differ from the theoretical needed.  
The model includes a decided fraction of heat loss that cannot be escaped from. For example if the heat pump does not use night set back a default penalty loss of 12% from the total delivered energy is subtracted. The losses from the apparatus and system operation are also decided in percentages.  
At part load operation there is no change in the system flows. This does not seem right with controlled radiators. (Should the radiators be controlled or is it enough with a displacement/adjustment of the radiator curve

The night set back

The night set back function uses the same night temperature all year around, which is not the case in reality.
It is not possible to choose the energy requirement of the house; instead the energy demand is an outcome of the capacity of the heat pump. If the heat pump is not monovalent also the fraction of backup heat is needed to decide the energy demand of the house.  
GSHP’s are treated unfairly when recalculating the operation data to part load operation. The ground source heat pumps are degraded by a factor 0.89 at 50 % of the delivered capacity. (The Cd factor, i.e. the on/off control, is overestimated for water borne systems)

The large truck

The large truck
mounted units offer
lots of suction so you
typically do not have
to zone off the HVAC
system. These units
sit outside and a large
50’ to 100’ long
suction hose is
brought into the home
or building and
connected to the
ductwork. You are
limited to cleaning
residential and one or
two story commercial
buildings with the
truck mounted units.
These units are also
the most expensive
and require the most
maintenance.
• Trailer mounted and

The highest level of

The highest level of
cleaning is achieved by
power brushing and air
washing because it does
the best job of removing
the accumulated dirt
and debris in the
ductwork. The
brushing does the best
job of dislodging the
accumulated dirt and
debris because it is
making physical contact
with more of the
interior ductwork than
the other methods. Air
washing after brushing
is necessary to help
move any remaining
Dirt and debris out of
the ductwork to the
vacuum, collection
system.

This dirt and debris

This dirt and debris is
collected (via the
negative pressure or
suction from the
vacuum collection unit)
and blown (via air
washing tools) to the
vacuum collection unit.
Coils can be cleaned via
air washing, contact
vacuuming or with coil
cleaning solutions and
water.

that contractors use to

There are three main
types/levels of cleaning
used to clean ductwork
that contractors use to
achieve source removal
of the accumulated dirt
and debris:
The first level is air
washing only. Air
washing is the use of
high-pressure air that
comes from your air
compressor through an
air hose to an air
nozzle. This air nozzle
delivers the streams of
high-pressure air, which
dislodges the
accumulated dirt and
debris. The suction
from the vacuum
collection system and
the high-pressure air
from the air nozzle
move the dirt and
debris that has been
dislodged from the
ductwork into the
vacuum collection
system.

What is Air Duct Cleaning?

1. What is Air Duct
Cleaning?
Air duct cleaning is
more than cleaning
air ducts. A more
appropriate term to
use would be “HVAC
system cleaning.”
The HVAC system
includes everything in
the air steam like all
of the registers, grilles
and diffusers, the
supply ductwork and
the return ductwork.
In residential systems
it also includes the
furnace or air
handler. In
commercial systems it
would also include
turning vanes, reheat
coils, vav boxes,
dampers etc.

Qualifications

Qualifications
There is probably no
one more qualified
then the HVAC
Contractor to perform
air duct cleaning
services. They
already have
extensive knowledge
of the HVAC system
and have the skill set
to clean all of the
components in the
HVAC system. There
is not a better or
easier time to clean
HVAC system they
when you are
changing out a
furnace or air
handler

Many HVAC

Many HVAC
Contractors are
looking for ways to
expand and grow
your business. It
makes sense to
consider a service
that have good long
term potential, a
service that
compliments your
existing services, a
service that is not
difficult to enter and
a service that offers
good profitability.
The indoor air quality
market in general and
air duct cleaning in
particular is just such
a service

The electricity

The electricity consumed by the heat pump, WHP, is measured continually while the produced space heating is measured at five “performance tests” done at different outdoor temperatures. During the performance tests the heating capacity of the heat pump is measured during stable conditions and is thereby not including any defrost period. Therefore the calculated COP for each test point is based on data from only a part of the operating cycle

From the five

From the five performance tests the COP for the heat pump can be expressed as a function of the outdoor temperature. From this function an average COP for each month is calculated based on the average temperature for the month. Knowing the electricity produced each month by the heat pump the SPF2 can be calculated:

The calculations of SPF’s

The calculations of SPF’s are based on the field measurements data from the Fraunhofer study. In the data we have received from the Fraunhofer study the total energy consumption for the heat pump system and its components is presented as well as the energy consumption divided into energy used for space heating and energy used for production of domestic hot water.
In this project we have not been able to evaluate exactly how these allocations have been made. For some of the studied installation sites a part (up to 20%) of the total electricity consumption has been allocated neither to space heating nor to the domestic hot water production. This is mainly the case for the electricity consumption. For the heat produced no energy gap is seen between the total energy production and the energy divided into space heating and domestic hot water

Ground source heat pumps

Ground source heat pumps When using prEN14825, data according to Table 13 has to be filled in. The chosen climate, “average” gives that Tdesign is -10°C. Tbivalent is the outdoor temperature where the capacity of heat pump covers the heat demand of the house. It is set to -10°C, to make the heat pump monovalent, like in the field study. TOL, the operation limit temperature, is set to -25°C. This temperature declares where the heat pump no longer can operate. The model calculates Pdesign as a result of Tbivalent and is the heat demand of the house at Tdesign

Field measurements

Field measurements
Ground source heat pumps All analyzed heat pump systems are installed in German single family houses with floor heating. The heat pump is more or less monovalent, only a very small amount of backup heat has been used during the year of measurements. The heat pumps in the study were all  installed in new built houses during the years 2004-2008.  The data used for the SPF calculations are based on field measurements carried out during one year, with one exception the SPF for site no. 1 is based on data measured from January to Augus

SPF1

SPF1 is normally measured on the brine/water sides of the evaporator/condenser, but it could also be measured directly in the refrigeration loop with e.g. the Climacheck equipment [10]. This requires measurement of the pressure and temperature of the refrigerant. This methodology is very efficient if the status/condition or diagnosis of the heat pump is to be evaluated, but generally in domestic heat pumps, the measurement  is not easy to carry out since measurement sockets are not generally installed.

Outdoor climate

Outdoor climate
The outdoor climate follows the climate of the year.  The calculation models use the same temperature climate when calculating SPF for the ground source heat pumps. The climate corresponds to a European average climate, Strasbourg, with the coldest temperature of - 10°C.
The field measurements of the ground source heat pumps are carried out in Germany. The heat pumps installations used for the SPF calculations are spread over the country, from the Hamburg area in the north to Stuttgart in the south. In the calculation models the average climate is chosen as the climate mostly corresponding to the German.
The air to air heat pump installation is made in a climate that is similar to the “colder” climate. Therefore the colder climate is used in the calculation models when calculating SPF for the air to air heat pump

Size Ductwork

Size Ductwork
` For conventional low velocity ductwork the sizing
method most used is by constant pressure, that is, the
average pressure or resistance to flow per unit length is
kept at a constant figure.
` The duct sizing chart (Figure below) shows the various
pressure drops against air quantity or volume and duct
diameter

The calculated SPF’

The calculated SPF’s in the study are based on the energy allocated to the space heating only, this in order to make the results comparable to the results from the calculation models in prEN14825 and Lot 1, which not include the production of domestic hot water.
Air to air heat pumps The field measurement of the air to air heat pumps is carried out in single family houses located in the Borås area of Sweden. All houses in the study have electricity driven radiators for back up heating.  The field measurements are based on SP method 1721. From the field measurements SPF2 and SPF3 has been calculated as described below

3 method

3 methods of designing ductwork and fan:
¾Equal velocity method - the designer selects the
same air velocity for use through out the system
¾Velocity reduction method - the designer selects
variable velocities appropriate to each section or branch of
ductwork
¾Equal friction method - the air velocity in the main
duct is selected and the size and friction determined from a
design chart. The same frictional resistance is used for all
other sections of ductwork

Absolutely.

Absolutely. The air purifying filter will trap mildew, mites, cigarette smoke, dust and
pollen. If someone in your family is prone to allergies, then a ductless heating and
cooling system is the perfect upgrade.
Our systems also feature photocatalytic deodorizing filters. These filters were
developed with a technology that decomposes odors and removes bacteria and
viruses. Maintenance is as simple as wiping the filter clean and exposing it to
sunlight once every six months. It never needs to be replaced.
Many utilities offer rebates or interest-free financing that can significantly reduce
installation costs. You may also qualify for state or federal tax credits. Ask your Daikin
dealer for information about programs in your area.

Imagine someone

Imagine someone whispering to you from five feet away—that’s how quietly a
ductless system operates. By activating Daikin’s unique quiet mode, the sound level
drops even more. It’s heating and cooling that is truly ultra-quiet.
These highly-efficient systems feature state-of-the-art technology that automatically
responds to your needs. There’s no fiddling with the settings—the programmed
temperature is maintained by constant monitoring. This constant monitoring not
only keeps you comfortable, it also prevents excessive cooling or heating and helps
cut your energy and operating costs by as much as 50 percent. Forget turning the
heat up or the air down, just set it and let it maintain your home’s comfort.
Daikin systems exclusively offer the ‘intelligent eye,’ a feature that automatically
switches into an energy-saving set-back temperature mode when no movement
has been detected for 20 minutes. Normal operation resumes when someone enters
the room, providing a comfortable environment and sustained cost-effectiveness.
The intelligent eye feature saves energy without compromising comfort.

Building an addition

Building an addition or converting a garage or basement?
A ductless system is a great solution when adding to your home or converting an
existing attic, garage or basement into a living space. It’s also a great solution when
the cost of a ducted system is too high, or otherwise not possible due to space or
home layout limitations.
Planning a new home?
New home designs can be easily adapted to take full advantage of a ductless
heating and cooling system. No matter the size of the home, a Daikin system can
be designed to simplify installation and maximize efficiency

Whether you’re

Whether you’re looking to supplement an existing system or condition an addition
or a brand-new home, Daikin ductless heating and cooling systems are designed
to meet your needs and provide maximum comfort, control and efficiency.
Do you have electric baseboards, wall heaters or ceiling units?
A Daikin system in the main living area can cost-effectively heat and cool an
average home, while existing baseboards or wall heaters can be used when or if
they are needed

Ductless systems

Ductless systems have just two main components and no invasive and costly
ductwork, which means installations are often done in a day. The indoor unit
is typically mounted on a centrally-located wall within your home that easily
connects to an outdoor unit.
Going ductless is the perfect upgrade to inefficient baseboard heaters and noisy,
view-obstructing window air conditioners. Rather than extending the home’s
existing ductwork or adding electric resistance heaters, a ductless system delivers
efficient heating and cooling and is quicker and less expensive to install.

General ventilation in the home

General ventilation in the home

Opening a window and turning on a window fan will improve general ventilation in mild weather. Sometimes, air exchange with outdoors happens through cracks around windows and walls. But if your house is weatherized, or if you notice air quality problems, you may need help to install a system to bring air in and out of your home. Most home heating and cooling systems move air around, but do not mechanically bring fresh air into the house.

Spot exhaust fans

Spot exhaust fans

Spot exhaust fans draw air away from the source and vent it to the outdoors. Sometimes, these are the only vents that exchange air with the outdoors. They can be useful to get air moving throughout the house, if doors to the kitchen or bathroom are left open and fans running.

• Look for exhaust fans in your bathroom, over the kitchen stove  and in laundry rooms.
• Be sure the vents lead to outdoors, and not into an attic or crawl space.
• Be sure the vents are clean and unblocked both indoors and where they release air outdoors.
• Test fans to see if they are working well enough to draw air out.
• Be sure to turn them on when you wash or cook!

Why we need good ventilation

Why we need good ventilation

Between smoke, dust, vapors and cleaning product residue, indoor air is often 2-5  times worse than outdoor air. Because we spend 90% of our time indoors, good ventilation is essential to good health. Children are particularly vulnerable because their lungs are still developing and they breathe more air per pound of body weight than adults.  In addition to reducing sources of air pollutants, good ventilation is important to ensure healthy air.

Fans and vents

Fans and vents

Fans and vents draw stale air out of your home or bring fresh air into your home. Making sure that air is circulating will prevent mold and mildew, ease allergies and asthma, keep you safe from pollutants, and protect your home from damage. 

How do I know I need better ventilation?

• If cooking scents and odors tend to linger
• If  you smell mold or mildew in closets or walls
• If your eyes get irritated indoors
• If you notice condensation on the inside of your windows or on cold surfaces

Rate Procedure

Ventilation Rate Procedure is rate based on standard and prescribes the rate at which ventilation air must be delivered to a space and various means to condition that air.^[38] Air quality is assessed (through CO₂ measurement) and ventilation rates are mathematically derived using constants. Indoor Air Quality Procedure uses one or more guidelines for the specification of acceptable concentrations of certain contaminants in indoor air but does not prescribe ventilation rates or air treatment methods.^[38] This addresses both quantitative and subjective evaluations, and is based on the Ventilation Rate Procedure. It also accounts for potential contaminants that may have no measured limits, or for which no limits are not set (such as formaldehyde offgassing from carpet and furniture).

In hot,

In hot, humid climates, unconditioned ventilation air will deliver approximately one pound of water each day for each cfm of outdoor air per day, annual average. This is a great deal of moisture, and it can create serious indoor moisture and mold problems.

• Ventilation efficiency is determined by design and layout, and is dependent upon placement and proximity of diffusers and return air outlets. If they are located closely together, supply air may mix with stale air, decreasing efficiency of the HVAC system, and creating air quality problems.
• System imbalances occur when components of the HVAC system are improperly adjusted or installed, and can create pressure differences (too much circulating air creating a draft or too little circulating air creating stagnancy).

local exhaust

local exhaust ventilation addresses the issue of avoiding the contamination of indoor air by specific high-emission sources by capturing airborne contaminants before they are spread into the environment. This can include water vapor control, lavatory bioeffluent control, solvent vapors from industrial processes, and dust from wood- and metal-working machinery. Air can be exhausted through pressurized hoods or through the use of fans and pressurizing a specific area

The highest level of

The highest level of
cleaning is achieved by
power brushing and air
washing because it does
the best job of removing
the accumulated dirt
and debris in the
ductwork. The
brushing does the best
job of dislodging the
accumulated dirt and
debris because it is
making physical contact
with more of the
interior ductwork than
the other methods. Air
washing after brushing
is necessary to help
move any remaining
Dirt and debris out of
the ductwork to the
vacuum, collection
system.

that contractors use to

There are three main
types/levels of cleaning
used to clean ductwork
that contractors use to
achieve source removal
of the accumulated dirt
and debris:
The first level is air
washing only. Air
washing is the use of
high-pressure air that
comes from your air
compressor through an
air hose to an air
nozzle. This air nozzle
delivers the streams of
high-pressure air, which
dislodges the
accumulated dirt and
debris. The suction
from the vacuum
collection system and
the high-pressure air
from the air nozzle
move the dirt and
debris that has been
dislodged from the
ductwork into the
vacuum collection
system.

In addition many

In addition many
Contractors also offer:
• System sanitizing.
• Dryer vent cleaning.
• Installation of UV
lights
NADCA has also
published a document
called ACR 2006 –
Assessment, Cleaning
and restoration of HVAC
Systems. This
document is the basis
for many commercial
cleaning specifications
today. These
commercial
specifications spell out
what is required on that
project. Typically you
need to clean anything

esidential air duct

esidential air duct
cleaning. This list
includes the following
activities:
• Visual inspection
before and after
cleaning.
• Remove, clean and
replace supply
registers and return
grilles.
• Clean supply
ductwork and plenum.
• Clean return ductwork
and plenum.
• Install access openings
as needed and reseal
after cleaning.
• Clean blower motor
and assembly.
• Clean air steam side of
heat exchanger.
• Clean secondary heat
exchanger.
• Clean evaporator coil
and drain pan.
• Wash air cleaner.
• Replace air filter.

If microbial

If microbial
contamination is a
concern the HVAC
system can be cleaned
and then sanitized. In
some HVAC systems
there is fiberglass
insulation. In many of
these systems this
insulation is
deteriorated over time
and must either be
replaced or repaired.
The ultimate goal is to
remove all of the
accumulated dirt, debris
and other contamination
found in the system.
This is called source
removal.

vacuuming. Others, like

vacuuming. Others, like
ductwork, you put
under negative pressure
with a vacuum
collection unit and then
dislodge the
accumulated dirt and
debris with your air
washing and power
bushing tools.
This dirt and debris is
collected (via the
negative pressure or
suction from the
vacuum collection unit)
and blown (via air
washing tools) to the
vacuum collection unit.
Coils can be cleaned via
air washing, contact
vacuuming or with coil
cleaning solutions and
water.

1. What is Air Duct Cleaning?

1. What is Air Duct
Cleaning?
Air duct cleaning is
more than cleaning
air ducts. A more
appropriate term to
use would be “HVAC
system cleaning.”
The HVAC system
includes everything in
the air steam like all
of the registers, grilles
and diffusers, the
supply ductwork and
the return ductwork.
In residential systems
it also includes the
furnace or air
handler. In
commercial systems it
would also include
turning vanes, reheat
coils, vav boxes,
dampers etc.
Some surfaces, like
the inside of the
furnace or air
handler, you clean
via contact

Measure 3: Makeup and Transfer

Measure 3: Makeup and Transfer Air Requirements Members of CAL OSHA who attended stakeholder meetings expressed concerns about maintaining minimum ventilation in kitchens in system designs that use high rates of transfer air usage approaching 100%. If kitchen ventilation is provided via 100% transfer air from other spaces, the air handlers serving those spaces must include enough outside air to serve the kitchen too. Otherwise, ventilation shall be provided via direct makeup air units. It remains the designer’s responsibility to ensure ventilation is provided.  This is stated explicity in the following section of Title 24: EXCEPTION to Section 121(b)2: Transfer air.  The rate of outdoor air required by Section 121(b)2 may be provided with air transferred from other ventilated spaces if:  A. None of the spaces from which air is transferred have any unusual sources of indoor air contaminants; and  B. The outdoor air that is supplied to all spaces combined, is sufficient to meet the requirements of Section 121(b)2 for each space individuall

Measure 4:

Measure 4: Commercial Kitchen System Efficiency Options Members of CAL OSHA who attended stakeholder meetings raised some key issues which stimulated the addition of the following requirements for demand controlled systems: 1) Demand controlled systems shall include failsafe controls that result in full flow upon cooking sensor failure 2) Demand controlled systems shall allow occupants the ability to temporarily override the system to full flow 3)  Demand controlled systems shall be capable of reducing exhaust and replacement air system airflow rates to the larger of: a. 50% of the total design exhaust and replacement air system airflow rates  b. The ventilation rate required per Section 121
All of these additions addressed a concern for kitchen occupants to be provided minimum ventilation and provisions for maintaining a safe environment in the event of a hood control failur

6. Recommended Languag

6. Recommended Language for the Standards Document, ACM Manuals, and the Reference Appendices
6.1 Measure 1: Direct Replacement of Exhaust Air Limitation
6.1.1 Code Language SECTION 101 – DEFINITIONS AND RULES OF CONSTRUCTION SECTION 144 – PRESCRIPTIVE REQUIREMENTS FOR SPACE CONDITIONING SYSTEMS (m) Limitation on Direct Replacement of Kitchen Hood Exhaust Air. Replacement air introduced directly into the hood cavity of kitchen exhaust hoods shall not exceed 10% of the hood exhaust airflow rate.

6.2 Measure 2: Type I Exhaust Hood Airflow Limitations

6.2 Measure 2: Type I Exhaust Hood Airflow Limitations
6.2.1 Code Language SECTION 144 – PRESCRIPTIVE REQUIREMENTS FOR SPACE CONDITIONING SYSTEMS (o) Type I Exhaust Hood Airflow Limitations. For kitchen/dining facilities having total Type 1 and Type II kitchen hood exhaust airflow rates greater than 5,000 cfm, each Type 1 hood shall have an exhaust rate that complies with Table 1. If a single hood, or hood section, is installed over appliances with different duty ratings, then the maximum allowable flow rate for the hood or hood section shall not exceed the Table 1 values for the highest appliance duty rating under the hood or hood section. Refer to the ASHRAE Standard 154 for definitions of hood type, appliance duty, and net exhaust flow rate

Measure 3: Makeup and Transfer Air Requirements

Measure 3: Makeup and Transfer Air Requirements
6.3.1 Code Language SECTION 101 – DEFINITIONS AND RULES OF CONSTRUCTION 101 (b) Definitions.   Makeup Air (Dedicated Replacement Air): outdoor air deliberately brought into the building from the outside and supplied to the vicinity of an exhaust hood to replace air, vapor, and contaminants being exhausted. Makeup air is generally filtered and fan-forced, and it may be heated or cooled depending on the requirements of the application. Makeup air may be delivered through outlets integral to the exhaust hood or through outlets in the same room. Replacement Air: outdoor air that is used to replace air removed from a building through an exhaust system. Replacement air may be derived from one or more of the following: makeup air, supply air, transfer air, and infiltration. However, the ultimate source of all replacement air is outdoor air. When replacement air exceeds exhaust, the result is exfiltration. Transfer Air: air transferred from one room to another through openings in the room envelope, whether it is transferred intentionally or not. The driving force for transfer air is generally a small pressure differential between the rooms, although one or more fans may be used

SECTION 144

SECTION 144 – PRESCRIPTIVE REQUIREMENTS FOR SPACE CONDITIONING SYSTEMS (n) Kitchen Ventilation – Makeup and Transfer Air Mechanically cooled or heated makeup air delivered to any space with a kitchen hood shall not exceed the greater of: a) The supply flow required to meet the space heating and cooling load b) The hood exhaust flow minus the available transfer air from adjacent spaces.  Available transfer air is that portion of outdoor ventilation air serving adjacent spaces not required to satisfy other exhaust needs, such as restrooms, not required to maintain pressurization of adjacent spaces, and that would otherwise be relieved from the building.
6.3.2 Nonresidential ACM Manual Refer to Section 6.5 for Nonresidential ACM language.
6.4 Measure 4: Commercial Kitchen System Efficiency Options
6.4.1 Code Language SECTION 125 – REQUIRED NONRESIDENTIAL MECHANICAL SYSTEM ACCEPTANCE 15. Type I Kitchen Hoods shall be tested in accordance with NJ.16.1.  SECTION 144 – PRESCRIPTIVE REQUIREMENTS FOR SPACE CONDITIONING SYSTEMS

Kitchen Ventilation

 Kitchen Ventilation – Efficiency Options. A kitchen/dining facility having a total Type I and Type II kitchen hood exhaust airflow rate greater than 5,000 cfm shall have one of the following:  a) At least 50% of all replacement air is transfer air that would otherwise be exhausted. b) Demand ventilation system(s) on at least 75% of the exhaust air. Such systems shall: 1) Include controls necessary to modulate airflow in response to appliance operation and to maintain full capture and containment of smoke, effluent and combustion products during cooking and idle 2) Include failsafe controls that result in full flow upon cooking sensor failure 3) Allow occupants the ability to temporarily override the system to full flow 4)  Be capable of reducing exhaust and replacement air system airflow rates to the larger of: i.  50% of the total design exhaust and replacement air system airflow rates  ii.  The ventilation rate required per Section 121  c) Listed energy recovery devices with a sensible heat recovery effectiveness of not less than 40% on at least 50% of the total exhaust airflow. d) A minimum of 75% of makeup air volume that is: a. Unheated or heated to no more than 60°F  b. Uncooled or cooled without the use of mechanical cooling

The snow that

The snow that softened on the upper top zone will solidify as it moves onto the lower top region if that lower territory is colder than at the top, which typically is the situation. Commonly, the lower range of the top will remain colder than the upper top territory, particularly in the region just over the eave, where temperatures may not be much higher than the surrounding outside air. In the event that the open air temperature is well underneath solidifying, conditions for ice dam shaping are positive.

Warm air thinks

Warm air thinks that its path into the upper room, amid winter, in light of the fact that the upper carpets of most homes encounter some hotness misfortune through the protection, even overall protected homes. Since warm air climbs, the upper bit of a storage room is dependably the hottest. On the off chance that loft ventilation is not sufficient to vent away this warm air and make a "frosty top" — a condition where the top temperature is adjusted start to finish — snow that has gathered on the top can soften.

Unvented high temperature

Unvented high temperature in chilly climate brings about ice dams.

Ice dams can structure at the edge of a top on the grounds that warm air caught at the highest point of the loft can liquefy snow on the top that, then, solidifies as it runs around the lower, cooler territory of the top.

Ice dams can turn into a gigantic issue for mortgage holders.

Ice dams can turn into a gigantic issue for mortgage holders

As the melted

As the melted and frozen snow continues to freeze, melt, and refreeze, it creates a barrier, or dam, preventing water from running off the roof. Once dammed, water and ice can creep back up under the shingles and underlayment resulting in leaks.

Proper ventilation and added insulation help mitigate this melting and freezing process and eliminate ice dams. Ice dams may not be a large concern at sea level, but in homes at higher elevations and inland this can be a serious issue.

The snow that

The snow that melted on the upper roof area will freeze as it moves onto the lower roof area if that lower area is colder than at the top, which usually is the case. Typically, the lower area of the roof will remain colder than the upper roof area, especially in the area just above the eave, where temperatures may not be much higher than the ambient outdoor air. If the outdoor temperature is well below freezing, conditions for ice dam formation are favorable.

Unvented heat

Unvented heat in cold weather results in ice dams.

Ice dams can form at the edge of a roof because warm air trapped at the top of the attic can melt snow on the roof that, then, freezes as it runs toward the lower, cooler area of the roof.

Ice dams can become a huge problem for homeowners.
Ice dams can become a huge problem for homeowners.
Warm air finds its way into the attic, during winter, because the upper floors of most homes experience some heat loss through the insulation, even well insulated homes. Because warm air rises, the upper portion of an attic is always the warmest. If attic ventilation is not sufficient to vent away this warm air and create a “cold roof” — a condition where the roof temperature is equalized from top to bottom — snow that has collected on the roof can melt.

high storage room

These high storage room temperatures additionally can prompt higher vitality utilization: Typically, on a hot day, the second story rooms of a house are hotter in light of the fact that warm (lighter) air ascents while cooler (denser) air falls. Nonetheless, when despicable loft ventilation permits the upper room to end up super-warmed, the wonder of descending high temperature movement happens (through the storage room floor and into the home's upper carpets). This makes the upper carpets of the home significantly hotter. The additional warming of the upper floors is not normally lightened by the evening time; a deficiently ventilated storage room at times loses enough high temperature overnight to adjust for the hotness picked up amid the day. This impact is magnified in cutting edge homes with heavier protection that keeps heat from getting away from the upper carpets. The additional warming of the upper carpets because of the descending relocation of high temperature causes mortgage holders to run mechanical supplies, for example, ventilation systems and window fans, longer than they generally would keeping in mind the end goal to chill off the home. Along  these  lines, insufficiently ventilated upper rooms help more prominent vitality utilization in higher service bills amid the mid yea

Poor air quality sources

Poor air quality sources

Indoor air pollutants from combustion devices

If your home uses a combustion-based furnace such as natural gas-fired furnace or an oil-burning furnace, these heating systems produce pollution particles from that combustion cycle. Other heating devices such as gas stoves, space heaters, wood-burning stoves and dryers will also produce pollution particles that can affect indoor air quality.

If your home’s HVAC system is installed properly and is up-to-date on maintenance or repairs, these pollution particles should be expelled from the furnace and vented through the exhaust or chimney.

However, if your home’s chimney or exhaust vent are not sealed properly, combustion byproducts such as carbon monoxide and nitrogen dioxide can enter your home’s air and cause symptoms such as dizziness, headaches, irritation of the mucous membranes in the eyes, nose and throat, and, in the case of carbon monoxide, even death.

Avoid duct-cleaning scams

Avoid duct-cleaning scams

When you hire someone to put up wallpaper or build a fence, it's easy to see whether it's a good job. But with services like air duct cleaning, there's much more risk of fraud because the homeowner can't easily check the work. A disreputable company may not have the proper equipment to do a quality air duct cleaning job, may overcharge you, may leave the ducts dirty or filled with debris and may even do costly damage to your home's HVAC system. Some companies entice you with very low offers, such as $59 for a whole-house cleaning, then pile on extra charges. 

The National Air Duct Cleaners Association agrees with most of the EPA's stance on air duct cleaning with one exception -- it does recommend routine work by quality air duct cleaners every few years. According to the NADCA, consider the following when making a decision whether or not to hire an air duct cleaner: Smokers in the household Pets that shed high amounts of hair and dander Water contamination or damage to the home or HVAC system Residents with allergies or asthma who might benefit from a reduction in the amount of indoor air pollutants in the home's HVAC system After home renovations or remodeling Prior to occupancy of a new home

The National Air Duct Cleaners Association agrees with most of the EPA's stance on air duct cleaning with one exception -- it does recommend routine work by quality air duct cleaners every few years.

According to the NADCA, consider the following when making a decision whether or not to hire an air duct cleaner:

• Smokers in the household
• Pets that shed high amounts of hair and dander
• Water contamination or damage to the home or HVAC system
• Residents with allergies or asthma who might benefit from a reduction in the amount of indoor air pollutants in the home's HVAC system
• After home renovations or remodeling
• Prior to occupancy of a new home

Is air duct cleaning necessary?

Many HVAC repair and maintenance companies also offer air duct cleaning services, which typically cost $300 to $500.

Is air duct cleaning necessary?

Angie's List members share their experiences and opinions on air duct cleaning. Read more

Some companies specialize as air duct cleaners. They generally recommend having air ducts cleaned every 3 to 5 years, or even more frequently to reduce pollutants in the air.

However, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency warns that there is no scientific evidence that cleaning air ducts regularly improves air quality, and some HVAC professionals say it is a waste of money.

Yet some allergy sufferers, including Angie's List members, have reported that having their ducts cleaned has led to reduced allergy symptoms and cleaner air.

Although the EPA does not recommend routinely hiring air duct cleaning services, it does suggest it be done when there are specific reasons for doing so. This would include factors such as

Energy Savings

Energy Savings

According to the U.S. Department of Energy, 25 to 40 percent of the energy used for heating or cooling a home is wasted. Contaminants in the heating and cooling system cause it to work harder and shorten the life of your system. Although filters are used, the heating and cooling system still gets dirty through normal use.

When an HVAC system is clean, it doesn’t have to work as hard to maintain the temperature you desire. As a result, less energy is used, leading to improved cost-effectiveness.

Shower too powerful

Shower too powerful

A shower should only use about six to ten litres of water a minute, but many use much more. Many use 18 litres a minute, and some up to 25 litres.

If your shower is using too much water, you’re wasting money on electricity and possibly on water charges. If you have an eight-minute shower every day and the shower uses 18 litres per minute, you’re using more than 52,000 litres of water a year, and the water heating will be costing you more than $440 a year (based on electricity cost of 18c/kWh). Reducing the flow to 6L/min would cut power costs alone by two thirds, that’s saving you $293 a year.

To test your shower’s flow:

• Set the shower at the temperature and flow you normally use.
• Hold a bucket underneath it and measure how much water you collect in a minute.

If you get more than 12 or 13 litres in a minute, you can save energy and water by doing one of the following:

• Not turning the mixer on to full flow when you use the shower.
• Installing a flow restrictor.
• Restricting how far you can turn the shower mixer on by adjusting the mixer. You may need a professional to do this.
• Fitting a low-flow showerhead.

COMMERCIAL AIR DUCT CLEANING

CLEANER AIR. HEALTHIER WORKPLACE.

If you think the air you breathe indoors is cleaner than what’s outside, think again. The EPA estimates indoor air can be two to five times more polluted than outdoor air. All that bad air translates into everything from frequent colds and sore throats to headaches, asthma, allergies and chronic fatigue, which in turn causes employee downtime.

When dust, debris and other contaminants build up in your heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) system, they can trigger allergies and other health issues. But they also reduce energy efficiency, which increases your energy costs. Now you have two compelling reasons to make sure the air ducts and HVAC system in your workplace are running efficiently.

The Stanley Steemer air duct cleaning free inspection will show you exactly how much dirt is in your HVAC system and where it has collected. After we’ve completed the evaluation and inspection, we develop and provide a scope-of-work document. It outlines the work to be performed and a timeframe for completing it.

Next, our NADCA certified technicians use powerful equipment to remove the pollutants. With Stanley Steemer air duct cleaning, we systematically clean every component of your building’s ventilation system, including air handling unit components, outdoor air intakes, VAV boxes and reheat coils, and supply, return and exhaust ductwork.

We maintain an open line of communication with your employees throughout the entire cleaning process. Our goal is to contain the work areas, ensuring minimal disruption to your business operations. After the Stanley Steemer air duct cleaning is complete, we conduct a final inspection and then provide you with before-and-after photos of the work we’ve done.

As always, only trained Stanley Steemer employees perform the work. It’s an approach that differentiates us from the competition. Because we want you to be completely satisfied with the results. Stanley Steemer—your partner in clean.

Top Benefits of HVAC Cleaning

Top Benefits of HVAC Cleaning

NADCA’s rule of thumb for consumers is that “if your ducts look dirty, they probably are,” and that dirty HVAC systems should be inspected by a reputable, certified HVAC professional. Below are some other reasons homeowners choose to have their air ducts cleaned.

Indoor Air Quality

Indoor air quality is one concern that homeowners have when they decide to investigate air duct cleaning. In a typical six-room home, up to 40 pounds of dust is created annually through everyday living. Your heating and cooling system is the lungs of your home. The system taken air in and breathes air out.

Through normal occupation in a home, we generate a great deal of contaminants and air pollutants, such as dander, dust, and chemicals. These contaminants are pulled into the HVAC system and re-circulated 5 to 7 times per day, on average. Over time, this re-circulation causes a build-up of contaminants in the duct work.

While dirty ducts don’t necessarily mean unhealthy air in your home, school or workplace, they may be contributing to larger health issues or harboring contaminants that could cause serious problems for people with respiratory health conditions, autoimmune disorders or some environmental allergies.

Toilet using too much water

Toilet using too much water

An average single-flush toilet uses 11 litres per flush. An average three-occupant household flushes 15 times a day. That’s 165 litres per day or over 60,000 litres per year. If you pay for your water, that’s money down the toilet.

Some local authorities require you to install a dual flush system when replacing a toilet, but you may decide it makes sense to do that even if it’s not required. Modern systems use only three litres or six litres of water per flush. This is 30% less than older dual-flush cisterns and up to eight litres less than single flush cisterns. You will need a plumber to replace the toilet cistern.

On older toilets, you can also install a flush control device, such as a ‘gizmo’. Some councils give them out for free. It could save significant amounts of water in your toilet system.

Alternatively, place a brick or zip-lock plastic bag filled with water in the cistern. This will reduce the amount of water used for each flush.

Leaking toilet cistern

Leaking toilet cistern

A leaky toilet cistern can be a silent and invisible water waster. The water may leak from the cistern into the toilet or out of the overflow pipe.

Inside toilet cistern

To check for leaks into the toilet bowl, add food colour to the water in the cistern. If the food colour appears in the toilet without flushing, you know you have a leak. Replace the flush valve. You may need a plumber to help with this as some cisterns are complex.

In older cisterns if water is dripping out of the overflow pipe, try adjusting the cistern float level, but it is likely the ball valve washer will need replacement. You may need a professional to do this. You could also try bending the float arm.

Newer cisterns with a flushing cassette are more difficult to adjust, seek advice from a professional.

Sink, bath and shower wastes or overflows not draining or draining slowly

Sink, bath and shower wastes or overflows not draining or draining slowly

This can be due to a build up of food scraps, soap, grease or hair and can lead to flooding.

With modern showers you should be able to simply lift the trap out and clean it out.

With older systems, first clean out the trap or u-bend with a rubber plunger, which you can get from most DIY stores or plumbing retailers. You can also try pouring boiling water or an alkaline drain cleaner down the drain to clear it.

If this doesn’t get rid of the blockage it may indicate other problems such as sagging pipes or blocked drains or pipes under the house.

Check under the house to make sure the pipes have an even fall to the drain. Provide support under the pipes if necessary.

Leaky hot water cylinder

Leaky hot water cylinder

Know where to turn your cylinder power, gas and water supply off before having any work done on it. You are not allowed to work on your hot water system yourself, you need to use a professional.

If water is dripping excessively from the hot water system overflow or running from the vent pipe on the roof, this could be a sign that your hot water system is not working properly and the valves or thermostat may need servicing.

Modern cylinders have test levers on the valves on the water supply to the cylinder and on top of the cylinder. Twice a year, lift these to check they work. If water does not discharge or is continually running from the valves, call in a professional to service them

Unsecured hot water cylinder

Unsecured hot water cylinder

This could be a hazard in an earthquake. Secure the tank to the framing or external cladding if it is outside. The Earthquake Commission’s website explains how.

Leaking waste pipes

Leaks from the bath, shower or sink waste pipes could damage your home’s framing or foundations and cause damp in the home from a build up of moisture under the house.

Leaking waste pipes must be repaired by a plumber.

Dripping taps

Dripping taps

Dripping taps or showers waste a lot of water and can stain the sink or bath. A fast-dripping tap can waste more than 70L of water a day. If it’s a hot tap, it could be costing you more than $220 a year in 

Toby tap

electricity. If you pay for your water, you’re sending even more money down the drain.

It’s easy to replace most tap washers. However, sometimes replacing the washer doesn’t fix the problem and you may need to re-seat the tap. Reseating tools can be bought at most DIY stores.

If this still doesn’t work you could try replacing the head of the tap (cover assembly). Speak to your plumber or plumbing retailer before doing this as the whole tap may need to be replaced.

Intertennancy toby

“Washerless” taps – those with ceramic washers – are fairly complex and you may need a plumber to fix these. These taps have different replacement cartridges according to the make of tap.

Problems with ceramic taps usually result when there is no filter on the water supply pipe. Your plumber can advise you about this.

Shower mixers can be complex and difficult to repair. Speak to your plumber if you are having problems with a shower mixer.

EER

EER

If you have geothermal system, air conditioner or air source heat pump, you may be interested in your system’s Energy Efficiency Rating (EER). It measures cooling efficiency and is calculated by dividing a product’s BTU output by the watts of power it uses. Rule of thumb―higher is better.

COP

COP

The Coefficient Of Performance (COP) is used to measure certain heat pumps’ efficiencies while in heating mode. You’ll commonly see this measure applied to geothermal products. Unless you’re looking for painful reminders of high school math classes or are a budding engineer, this one is pretty tough to calculate. In a nutshell it’s the energy produced by the heat pump (in watts) divided by the energy consumed by the heat pump (in watts)―easy. Like other efficiency ratings, higher is better.

HSPF

HSPF

Heating Seasonal Performance Factor (HSPF) measures the efficiency of the heating mode of heat pumps. The higher the number, the greater the efficiency and cost-savings. Today’s models are required to have a minimum of 7.7 HSPF. Not that we’re bragging (even though we kind of are), but we offer a heat pump with an HSPF rating of 13 that leaves other heat pumps out in the cold*.

AFUE

AFUE

If you’re in the market for a gas- or oil-fired furnace, the Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE) rating is a helpful stat to know.

Displayed in percentages, the AFUE rating tells you how much of the fuel consumed by your furnace is used to heat your home and how much is wasted. The higher the AFUE rating, the greater the efficiency. For example, a 90% furnace creates heat, 90% of which is used directly by the home with 10% lost, generally as a result of venting. We offer a full line of furnaces, some with AFUE ratings that exceed 98%. We also boast the most efficient gas furnace on the market.*

If you have an older furnace (with an AFUE of approximately 64%), you could save a staggering 34% on your heating bills simply by replacing it with a new high-efficiency furnace—and make up the cost of replacing your old, inefficient furnace pretty quickly.

If your furnace is more than 15 years old and you’re not sure of its AFUE rating, you can contact the manufacturer about it. When you call, you’ll need to have the furnace’s serial number handy. Chances are you’ll find it on a small metal plate attached to the unit.

SEER

SEER

The Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER) is the measure of efficiency by which the cooling process of air conditioner and heat pump systems is rated. The higher the SEER number, the greater the efficiency, and therefore the greater the energy savings. Today, U.S. regulatory agencies require all new products to have a 13.0 SEER rating or better. We offer air conditioner and heat pump systems that can achieve SEER ratings over 20.